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Heading south from Karratha, we free camped the night beside a dry river bed……. Sounds idyllic, but not so. The downside of travelling at this time of the year in the west, is the number is sandgropers heading north to escape the winter chill, so turning into a free camp means dodging the scores of luxury, tandem axled apartments on wheels that pass for caravans.

Noelene had discovered an operating sheep station that would bring us on to the Ningaloo Reef coastline as anything remotely near Exmouth was booked out and caravaners were lining up in the mornings to take their chances on getting a space, and school holidays were a week away.

What a find! Bypassed the popular Elle’s beach camp site, dropped the tyre pressures and headed to Maggy’s. The beach site was packed but we continued on and found a rocky outcrop perfect for the camper and our nearest neighbours were 50 metres away. Beautiful views overlooking the reef, surging surf lulled us to sleep and the sunsets in this part of the world continued to be stunning.

Meanders and shell hunting along the beaches. Wrass and a shovel nosed shark close to shore. And freshly caught squid donated by our neighbour. We stayed an extra day.

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